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| Checking Out A Used Car |
| How to make sure you're getting a good car. |
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Tricks Of The Trade
The first thing a dealer does to a trade-in is go over it mechanically. The good dealers will correct defects and problems. This might involve anything from rebuilding the transmission and replacing worn mufflers and brakes to tuning the engine and aligning the front end.
Shady dealers will try to hide the defects rather than correct them. This is the man who uses that infamous recipe of pouring sawdust into standard transmissions to cover up noises caused by worn parts. Nowadays, heavy grease is used to mask the sound of worn gears and bearings. He'll "cure" a cracked engine block with a healthy dose of radiator stop leak--a temporary measure at best--and slap on a set of cheap tires to hide an alignment problem, or even worse, a bent chassis. |
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After the mechanical problems are dealt with, one way or another, the car goes through a cosmetic transformation. Steam cleaning is first on the agenda. The engine compartment, block, fender wells and even the trunk may receive the Mr. Clean treatment. The engine is repainted the original color and the engine decals are replaced or rubbed with Vaseline to make them look new. The firewall and the radiator are repainted and the battery is cleaned and then sprayed with clear lacquer.
The interior is next to be renewed. The headliner may be redyed or a new one installed. The old headliner may be worn, stained or have telltale holes indicating use as a taxi. Vinyl seats are spray painted, as is the dashboard. The whole interior is cleaned with a deodorizing shampoo. Worn carpets may be spray painted, touched up in worn areas or replaced with new carpeting or cheaper rubber mats.
Tired upholstery benefits from a set of seatcovers and worn armrests and floor pedal rubbers are replaced. The trunk may receive special treatment. It is hand cleaned, scratches and scars are repainted, and the trunk mat is replaced. All tires are repainted. The exterior will receive corrective bodywork, paint touch-ups and the mandatory rotary-buffer wax job.
A glass specialist replaces any cracked windows and a lot man replaces items like cracked lenses, burned out bulbs and missing lighters, hubcaps or chrome trim. The interior is then given a blast of "new car" fragrance from a spray can. The whole detailing job usually is effective enough to bluff the average used car buyer. But the shopper who knows where to look can pick up the clues left behind by the detailers. A sharp interior may be the result of lavish attention by the owner, or detailing.
Initial Inspection
The best time to closely examine a car is in strong daylight. Everything looks great at night under a dealer's bright floodlights. Rain can add to a paint's sheen and helps some engines to run better than they would on a dry day. Since you'll want to peek underneath the car, wear clothes that you won't mind getting soiled, and bring along a flashlight.
The initial inspection is a screening technique to weed out questionable or obviously unsound cars. If a car passes your inspection the next stop is to have it thoroughly checked by a mechanic or diagnostic center. If a dealer or private party refuses to let your mechanic look over the car, walk away.
The initial inspection is a systematic approach to evaluating the car's exterior, interior and mechanical systems. The key here is to be organized and methodical in your inspection and not jump from the trunk to the headlights to the engine oil.
Your inspection should take a double approach. You are looking for evidence of serious damage, which should immediately disqualify the car, and minor or cosmetic deficiencies which you may be able to use as a lever when negotiating price. Signs that a car has been detailed or reconditioned should not be the sole grounds for disqualifying a car. But they should be noted for later, more intensive checking by you or your mechanic as to the car's actual state of health.
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| Check the sheet metal for ripples and imperfections in the paint. An undamaged car will be uniformly shiny and reflections will be straight, not jagged. |
| Rust, if it penetrates the metal, is a serious flaw in anything except the cheapest station-car beaters. |
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| Check the exhaust system for holes, dents, smashed pipes, missing or deteriorated hangers or excessive rust. |
| Constant-velocity joint boots, all four of them, must be free of tears. Any leakage of grease from the boots means at least a big bill for new boots and repacked joints, if not an entire axle replacement. |
| A coin will give you a good idea of how much tread is left on the tires. Check at several points around the tire and across the tread surface. |
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The Exterior
Stand a few feet back from the car and walk around it slowly. You're looking for an overall impression and clues to possible problems. Does the car seem to sag if it's on level ground? If so, you can count on a suspension problem. Does the paint appear evenly matched? Are the bumpers straight and do they appear evenly aged with the rest of the exterior? New bumpers could mean replacement due to an accident and door handles that don't appear uniform might indicate an entire door was replaced for the same reason.
Now step in for a close look. Sight along the sides of the body for ripples or unevenness in the sheet metal, evidence that the car has seen bodywork. Open the doors and sight along the drip rails at the top of the car. Crooked drip rails are also evidence of damage. Check for signs of repainting. A late model car shouldn't need repainting for at least three years. Reasons for earlier repainting include accident damage and rust. If the chrome, bumpers and grille are pitted with rust and the paint looks shiny-new, you can bet the car has a bad rust problem or was in an accident. If you're able to poke something through a body panel, rust is excessive. Forget the car.
Underneath the car, check for leaky shocks (top), transmission (center) and rear end (bottom). Check out these areas thoroughly, especially for bumps under the paint. Another favorite place for rust to start is behind chrome strips on the body. Try to slide the strip slightly and note whether the paint behind the strip matches the rest of the car. It may not be exact because it hasn't been aged by the sun, but it should be close. Probe the metal behind or around the strip gently with a nail file. Soft spots indicate rust. Use the same procedure on the bottom of the rocker panels. The rocker panels are the areas below the doors. The inside edges on the bottom of the doors and the lower fender edges should also be looked at for signs of rust.
If you can push your fingernail or the point of a nail file through any areas of the body, it indicates that rust has gained a strong foothold and it could be an expensive proposition to eliminate.
Telltale signs of repainting are slight traces of paint on weatherstripping, glass or chrome. Open the hood and inspect the firewall. Do the wires show traces of paint? What about the paint underneath the wires? Does it match the rest of the car? Doorjambs are another area to check for signs of repainting.
Next, turn your attention to the doors. They should open and close smoothly and easily and fit snugly and evenly when shut. Hold the door handle button in and close the door. If it is difficult to close, the door could be sprung, indicating a past accident. Open the door and check it for sagging, indicating hard use. Also check the hood and trunk lid for proper fit and alignment.
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Under The Car
If you've brought your trusty flashlight, you can note obvious conditions under the car. This is a preliminary inspection, the final one being done by your own mechanic with the car on a lift.
Note the condition of the exhaust system. If the muffler and pipes appear extremely rusty, you have some replacement expenses ahead of you. If sections of the frame or chassis appear cleaner than others, or are freshly painted, it's likely that major structural repairs have been done and you should reject the car. Look at the inside of each wheel. Signs of leaks mean faulty brake cylinders or damaged brake lines. Check the rubber boots at both ends of the halfshafts of front-wheel-drive cars for cracks or leaking grease. Torn boots mean at least a disassembly and fresh grease, or replacement of the entire axle caused by road grit getting into the joint and grinding away at closely fitting surfaces.
Check the ground for signs of leaks. These could be engine oil, transmission lube (standard transmission), automatic transmission fluid, radiator coolant, brake fluid, rear end lube or even gasoline.
While you're close to the ground, note the condition of the tires. Check the tread depth with a penny. Place it, Lincoln's head first, into a tread groove. If you can see the top of Honest Abe's head, expect to shell out for replacements.
Interior Inspection
The interior of a privately owned car is more likely to be a true reflection of the car's overall condition than the interior of a dealer's car. If the present owner didn't at least make an effort to clean up the interior prior to sale, you can bet that he's fallen down on maintenance. Does the car's interior condition jibe with the mileage indicated on the odometer? At one time turning back the clock was common practice. Today, with electric odometers and federal laws against such tampering, reducing the numbers is less prevalent but not entirely eliminated. The average mileage for a car is between 10,000 and 12,000 miles per year. A car 1 or 2 years old should show light to moderate wear on the pedal pads. If the pads are excessively worn or are brand new, suspect higher than average mileage.
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| Check the interior of the car for filth and abnormal wear. If the seats are totally trashed, the brake pedal cover is worn thin, and the odo only shows 20,000 miles, the car may have substantially more than 20,000 miles on the road. Maybe 120,000. |
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| A brand-new brake pedal cover in a middle-aged car may have been replaced in an attempt to cover up the true mileage. |
| Check the radiator for normally-colored coolant that's not cloudy, rusty or carrying lumps of congealed oil. A neglected system will have old-looking fluid. An oil leak into the cooling system will make scum that looks like mayonnaise. |
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Other indications of actual mileage are old lubrication stickers on door jambs, the amount of wear on floor mats and the condition of upholstery, no matter what the pedal pads indicate. And while you're behind the wheel, make sure that there are no instruments or accessories that have obviously been removed. If everything looks too new the car probably has been detailed. Evidence of this is a trace of paint overspray on the metal doorstep plate.
Check out all of the systems and the accessories, including windshield washer and wipers--listen for quiet operation--radio, all the lights and directional signals, power windows and seats if applicable, etc. The engine may have to be running to check out items like the air conditioner and power accessories.
Excessively low mileage is not desirable either. A car subjected to local stop-and-go driving for short periods may be in worse mechanical shape than a car with more-than-average highway miles under its wheels.
Continue your interior inspection by opening and closing all the windows. They should work smoothly and not bind. Check for leaks around all windows.
Bounce on the seats. They should offer firm support. A sagging driver's seat indicates high mileage or hard use. New seat covers may be hiding worn upholstery. If the rear seats are worn more than the front, the car may have been used as a taxi. Check under and around the dash for any unusual holes which may also indicate it was a taxi.
Keys that fit loosely in the ignition switch can be the result of excessive wear and high mileage. If there are more than two separate keys needed to open the various locks (ignition, door, glove compartment and trunk) suspect that the car may have been stolen at one time and the original lock(s) damaged as a result.
Other high-mileage indicators are a worn steering wheel rim and a frayed armrest. Sit behind the wheel. With the engine off, press the accelerator and brake pedals a few times. Pedals that feel loose or sloppy may also indicate high mileage. Be sure to try all the switches and controls to make sure they all are operable.
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Mechanical Inspection
A complete mechanical evaluation requires visually inspecting various mechanical systems and an operational check, which involves a road test. If a dealer or private party won't let you road test a car, your best bet is to look elsewhere. Otherwise you're opening yourself up for too many unhappy surprises.
If the engine is excessively dirty have it steam cleaned in order to more easily spot leaks. Visible signs of oil or coolant leaks can mean only a heater hose needs tightening or, more seriously, a damaged engine block.
Inspect the radiator. Dampness or greenish stains on the core are a sign of seepage. Silver spots on the core mean that leaks have been repaired with solder. Aluminum radiators are sometimes repaired (temporarily) with epoxy glue. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and feel around inside the neck. An appreciable accumulation of gunk is a tipoff to cooling system problems. Check the coolant. It should be greenish-yellow, or on some late-model or foreign cars, orange or red. It should not be rusty, cloudy or gritty.
Check the engine oil by removing the dipstick. If the oil is very thick or gummy, or it has a grayish color, it's being used to mask an engine problem like burning oil or to quiet worn bearings. Unless you're game for a major engine overhaul, the car is not for you. While you've got the dipstick out, take a close look at how shiny it is. A car with more than 10,000 miles will have a dull gray or even black dipstick. A shiny, new looking stick means that it was either replaced with a new one, or, the old one was given the steel wool treatment. An oil change usually accompanies the steel wool treatment so that an examination gives the impression of an internally clean engine. In fact, the complete opposite might be true. Inspect the wiring. Badly frayed wires, especially on the firewall, are an expensive replacement proposition.
A strong odor of gasoline under the hood or under the car means there's a leak and a potential fire hazard from a defective gas line, injector, or charcoal canister.
Get ready to start the engine. With the ignition switch in the On position, all of the dashboard engine warning lights should be on. The starter should spin the motor rapidly with no unusual noises, and the engine should fire up quickly. A slow cranking engine means a weak battery, poor terminal connections or a bad starter. An engine that takes a long time to start might need a simple adjustment, fuel-injection repairs, a new fuel pump, a major overhaul--or anything in between.
When the engine starts, all the engine warning lights should go out. If they don't, the car has problems that require a mechanic's attention. If the Gen, Alt or Bat light remains on while the engine is running, the problem could range from a disconnected wire to a bad alternator and regulator. A Check Engine light is similarly unpredictable. It may indicate nothing more than a loose connector on an engine sensor or a $75 oxygen sensor replacement or a slagged $500 catalytic converter. Your mechanic will need to use a scan tool to check the diagnostic code in the computer. The car may run perfectly well even with the Check Engine light on--but it probably won't pass a state-mandated emissions inspection. Regardless of the Check Engine light's state, demand that the seller guarantee the vehicle will pass inspection as a condition of sale.
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| If you find more mayonnaise on the dipstick it may simply be condensation in the dipstick tube, or it may mean there's coolant leaking past a bad head gasket or through a cracked block |
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| Free play in the steering system should be less than an inch or two. Watch the front wheels as you rotate the steering wheel left and right to check. |
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Listen for any knocking, slapping or loud tapping sounds. They indicate potentially serious engine problems. If you hear a light ticking sound, it probably is a sticking valve lifter--a problem that can sometimes be cured with an oil change. Any noises should diminish as the engine warms up. Hissing or loud muffler sounds mean leaks somewhere in the exhaust system and can originate at deteriorated gaskets or a rusted out pipe. It is normal for an engine to idle rapidly when it is warming up. It should return to idle speed within 2 to 3 minutes.
The engine should idle smoothly, evenly and quietly. You can check the engine smoothness by placing your hand an inch or so away from the exhaust pipe. The power pulses should be evenly spaced and regular. A periodic miss or burp can mean valve or ignition problems.While you're standing at the rear of the car, have the seller or your helper race the engine a few times. Blue smoke coming from the exhaust indicates the car is burning oil. Water vapor is normal when the engine is cold. If you see heavy white vapor when the engine is warm, be suspicious of serious engine damage. Additional evidence that the engine is burning oil is a deposit of thick black gunk inside the tailpipe.
If the car has power brakes or power steering, test their operation while the engine is idling. Nonpower brakes and steering can be checked with the engine either on or off.
To test the brakes, push the pedal down slowly without pumping. It should not sink too close to the floor and it should feel firm, not spongy. Hold the pedal depressed for about one minute. If it starts to sink further, there is a problem with the brakes, most likely the master cylinder.
To check the steering, turn the wheels in the straight ahead position and determine the amount of play in the system by turning the wheel lightly from side to side until resistance is felt. There should be under 2 in. of wheel play. Sometimes when a car is equipped with power steering, it's difficult to tell where the play ends and front wheel movement begins. In that case, have a helper turn the wheel, or if you're alone, stand outside the car and move the steering wheel through the open driver's window while you watch the front wheels for movement.
Place the car in gear and inch forward slowly at the same time turning the steering wheel all the way from lock to lock. There should be no binding or tight spots in the wheel travel--an indication of overtightened steering adjustments to compensate for wear. There shouldn't be any clunks or strange sounds either.
Groans or squeaks from power steering cars can mean anything from a low fluid level or a loose belt to fluid leaks and a malfunctioning power steering pump. Another steering check involves grabbing the top of each front wheel and shaking back and forth as hard as you can. Movement or clunking sounds spell front end trouble.
Unevenly worn tread, felt by running your hand across the face of the tire to feel feather edges you sometimes can't see, are sure tip-offs to alignment or balancing problems. If the front tires appear new, stand about 15 ft. in front of the car, stoop down and look at the front wheels. If they appear to slant in at the top or bottom, the alignment is out of adjustment.
Back to the engine. Check for leaks again, this time with the engine running. Also peek under the car for oil or transmission fluid seepage. With the engine warm and running, check the automatic transmission fluid. The normal color is usually reddish. If the fluid appears brownish, bring the dipstick to your nose and give it the smell test. Fluid that has a burned smell indicates a transmission problem like slipping clutches. Low transmission fluid can mean leaks caused by worn seals. Turn off the engine and check the power steering fluid level. Here again, a low level can indicate leaks in the system.
Next, stop and start the engine five consecutive times. The engine should fire up instantly every time when warm.
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Road Test
The road test is an essential part of the evaluation program. Insist on it even if it means disqualifying the car. During the test you should concentrate on two things. First, the overall impression or feel of the car. If the car doesn't leave you with a good impression even though you can't say specifically why, don't buy it. Second, the road test should give you a fairly good evaluation of the individual components and systems.
Check the automatic transmission by shifting it through all the gear positions with your foot held firmly on the brake pedal. There should be no groans, whines or jerks. Shift back and forth from Drive to Reverse a few times. The gears should engage smoothly and silently without hesitation. Any clunks are telling you of driveline play or worn CV joints. A preliminary suspension check can be made by pushing down hard on each corner of the car. There should be no squeaks or other noises. The car should stop moving in one bounce. Otherwise, the shock absorbers are bad.
Try to find a variety of driving conditions that include a steep hill, sharp turns, an uncrowded highway and a bumpy section of road. Prior to road testing make sure all the tires are properly inflated.
Engine And Transmission
The engine should operate smoothly and quietly at all speeds. On a clear section of highway or a deserted street, apply full power from a standing start. There should be no hesitation in the flow of power, no excessive smoke from the exhaust nor loud pinging or other noises. The automatic transmission should not slip under full power or allow the engine to race between shifts. Accelerate to 50-to-60 mph and then, with your foot off the accelerator, coast back down to 20 mph. Then apply full power once again. Check once more for exhaust smoke and notice if the transmission downshifts smoothly and promptly into the kickdown gear. Reduce speed once more to about 15 mph and accelerate briskly to about 40 mph without engaging the kickdown gear. The engine should pull smoothly without hesitating or bucking--both are indications of possible valve or fuel injection problems.
Reduce speed and shift the transmission into low range--second gear with a standard transmission--and accelerate up to 40 mph. The engine should pull evenly at this speed without missing or hesitating and should not have loud tapping or knocking sounds. Placing a heavy load on the engine will reveal possible bearing problems. To do this, accelerate the car to 15 mph and maintain that speed with the brake while slowly depressing the accelerator to the floor. This test should be conducted for only a brief period. Any bearing noise that you hear should have an even rhythm. An irregular beat should disqualify the car. Any other strange or loud sounds should be discussed with your mechanic.
If you can locate a steep hill, reduce the car's speed to about 20 mph and then accelerate briskly to 40 mph. The engine should not protest by missing, bucking or hammering.
Check the automatic transmission shifting operation under normal driving conditions. From a standing start under moderate acceleration, the shifts should be silent and almost unnoticeable. Stopping from normal driving speeds should not produce any noticeable shifts or clunks from the transmission.
If the car has a manual transmission, check that the gears engage smoothly and silently and that the clutch action is even and not grabby. The clutch pedal should not be unduly stiff or have more than 2 in. of play at either end of its travel.
Check for clutch slipping by firmly applying the parking brake and engaging high gear. Depress the accelerator to race the engine slightly and let the clutch out slowly. The engine should stall out smoothly if the clutch is in good working order.
Brakes
The parking brake should hold the car firmly on a hill or against light accelerator pressure with the car in gear. Test the service brakes first at low speed, about 15-20 mph, on a clear and level road by maintaining light pressure on the steering wheel and applying the brakes hard. The car should not swerve. All four brakes should exert equal force. If one or two wheels lock up, grab or squeal, expect to spend some money replacing brake linings or doing other brake work. The pedal should remain firm and not sink closer than 2 in. to the floor. A low pedal can mean anything from a simple brake adjustment to more expensive repairs.
On a clear section of roadway make four hard consecutive stops from about 55 mph. The car should maintain good directional stability and the brakes should not fade. When brakes fade, they require substantially more pedal pressure to produce the same braking result. Check the ABS on cars so equipped by repeating this test on a wet road. The brake pedal should pulse under your foot and no wheels should lock.
Wheel Alignment
To check the wheel alignment, select a level section of road with light traffic. At normal driving speeds the car should track straight ahead with your hands off the wheel. To compensate for crosswinds make the same test going in the opposite direction. If the car continues to pull to one side, the alignment is off.
Aligning the wheels is not a serious proposition. But if the car isn't tracking true it could have a bent frame or damaged suspension. To quickly check whether the rear wheels are properly following the front wheels, stand directly behind the car and have the seller drive it away from you. If the car seems to be doing a crab imitation, scratch it off your list.
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Brakes
The parking brake should hold the car firmly on a hill or against light accelerator pressure with the car in gear. Test the service brakes first at low speed, about 15-20 mph, on a clear and level road by maintaining light pressure on the steering wheel and applying the brakes hard. The car should not swerve. All four brakes should exert equal force. If one or two wheels lock up, grab or squeal, expect to spend some money replacing brake linings or doing other brake work. The pedal should remain firm and not sink closer than 2 in. to the floor. A low pedal can mean anything from a simple brake adjustment to more expensive repairs.
On a clear section of roadway make four hard consecutive stops from about 55 mph. The car should maintain good directional stability and the brakes should not fade. When brakes fade, they require substantially more pedal pressure to produce the same braking result. Check the ABS on cars so equipped by repeating this test on a wet road. The brake pedal should pulse under your foot and no wheels should lock.
Wheel Alignment
To check the wheel alignment, select a level section of road with light traffic. At normal driving speeds the car should track straight ahead with your hands off the wheel. To compensate for crosswinds make the same test going in the opposite direction. If the car continues to pull to one side, the alignment is off.
Aligning the wheels is not a serious proposition. But if the car isn't tracking true it could have a bent frame or damaged suspension. To quickly check whether the rear wheels are properly following the front wheels, stand directly behind the car and have the seller drive it away from you. If the car seems to be doing a crab imitation, scratch it off your list.
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Steering And Suspension
The steering should be positive and predictable. Any sign of wandering, looseness or unusual handling characteristics means front end or suspension repairs are needed. A shimmy or shaking and vibrating of the steering wheel at certain speeds only is an indication that the wheels are out of balance. This is not usually an expensive condition to correct.
Drive over a section of bumpy road. A used car won't be as rattlefree as a new one. But you shouldn't hear any loud thumping or banging sounds. If the car bounces excessively or slams over the bumps, the suspension's shock absorbers need attention or replacement. Steering should remain even and positive over rough roads with a minimum of road shocks transmitted through the wheel.
Make several sharp turns at low speed, and then at a slightly higher speed. The steering should remain smooth with no hesitation or binding, and the car should not pitch or sway excessively. Rhythmic clunking noises when cornering are an indication of worn CV joints. The same noise from the rear while parking or making tight circles indicates a problem with the differential in a rear-drive.
Noises
Every moving part in a car wears to varying degrees. And worn or damaged parts usually make noise. Drive at normal speeds in an underpass or near parked cars. A solid surface such as a wall tends to reflect sound and makes it easier to hear any noises that the car is making.
Be sure to have the windows open. A steady humming or whining sound that changes in pitch with the car speed could well be a rear end on its way to lunch. A steady scraping sound could indicate dragging brakes, defective wheel bearings or even pebbles in the hubcap. Make a note of any sounds you hear for further investigation with a mechanic. Naturally the louder the sound, the more you should be concerned. One exception is the high pitched squeal of a slipping fan belt. This is easily corrected with a simple adjustment or a new belt.
When listening to sounds, try to notice if they vary with the speed of the engine or the speed of the car. Running the car in different gears or letting it coast in neutral for a short distance can help to diagnose the source of a hard-to-identify noise.
Smells
Just as cars are designed to operate silently, so are they made to be relatively odorfree. Funny odors can be caused by a faulty exhaust system or oil leaking onto a hot surface. Burnt smells can mean a dragging brake, an electrical problem or an overheated component. Odors are not only uncomfortable, they can also be dangerous. They indicate that expensive repairs are most likely needed. A rotten egg odor from the exhaust is caused by hydrogen sulfide not being burned in the catalytic converter. The cure may be a fuel-injection adjustment, or it may call for a replacement catalytic converter. A new cat can cost over $1000 on some luxury cars. Remember that the federally mandated emissions warranty means that all emissions control components are under warranty for either 50,000 or 100,000 miles depending on the car's year of manufacture.
The Second Once Over
When you've completed the road test, check over the engine and under the car for signs of leaks. Recheck the engine oil. If there is evidence of water or if the oil level on the dipstick is higher than it was initially, suspect a damaged engine that is allowing coolant to mix with the oil--grounds for immediate disqualification. Another way to check for this is to allow a couple of drops of oil to fall from the dipstick onto a hot exhaust manifold. The oil should smoke but not sizzle. If it does sizzle, this indicates that water is mixed with the oil. In addition, the oil shouldn't smell of gasoline, which could mean worn piston rings. Let the car sit awhile with the engine off, and then make a final inspection for any leaks.
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| When you've narrowed your choice down to a good candidate is a good time to get an independent mechanic to give your choice a good once-over. |
| You may be able to check the brake pads for wear without removing the wheel, but on most cars you'll have to jack it up. 1/8'' remaining pad material (not counting the backing plate) is an absolute minimum. |
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The Double Check
If the car passes your own evaluation, safeguard your investment by bringing it to your own mechanic. Do not use the dealer's mechanic. Bring your list of questions and notes. In addition to checking out your observations, the mechanic should perform additional inspections. With the car up on a lift, he can check the condition of the exhaust system and notice evidence of previous frame damage. He can pull a wheel and check the bearings, disc caliper and rotors, brake linings, drums and wheel cylinders. Suspension problems like leaking shock absorbers are more apparent from under the car. Likewise, the status of the ball joints and front end components can be more critically evaluated. He'll be able to spot rust and rot problems that were not obvious on the dealer's lot. And he'll be able to report more authoritatively on the seriousness of any leaks. Using special instruments, he can better determine the condition of your engine by testing its compression and vacuum. An experienced mechanic can tell a lot about an engine just by looking at the spark plugs. You should also get an estimate of how much money is necessary to correct any problems, including things like replacing worn fan belts or hoses, or the air filter. A scan tool can be used to check for fuel injection fault codes, some of which won't turn on the Check Engine light. Engines that use rubber drive belts for the camshaft should have the belt replaced periodically, typically every 60,000 miles. This will cost between $200 and $1200. And if it fails before it's replaced, the bill for the bent valves and broken pistons may well exceed the total cost of your car. Except for major defects that are grounds for immediate rejection, you'll have to weigh the cost of any repairs along with the final asking price of the car.
Evaluation
Obviously, the more things wrong with a car, the more money you'll have to put into it to correct the problems. But here again you have to weigh the variables of not correcting minor problems, doing the work yourself and the price of the car. If you have a choice between two very similar cars, you might think that all you have to do is select the car with fewer problems or the lower estimated repair bill. Take the case of two cars with equal mileage. One appears to have been driven harder, but has relatively few defects at present. The other car seems to have had an easier life but requires $75 more in repair bills. Your selection should take into account how long you intend to keep the car and the chances of future problems.
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EXTERIOR | | ITEM | LOOK FOR | PROBLEM? | | Paint | New paint on late model, mismatches in color. | yes no | | Body | Ripples (evidence of body work). Rust or rot. | yes no | | Chrome | New or unmatched bumpers, trim, grille, doorhandles. | yes no | | Body/frame | Misaligned doors, hood or trunk lid. Doors sag when open evidence of frame repair. | yes no | | Suspension | Sags. | yes no | | Exhaust system | Rust, holes, gunk in tailpipe. | yes no | | Tires | Poor condition, uneven tread wear, new retreads. | yes no | | Front end | Poor condition, uneven tread wear, new retreads. | yes no | | Trunk | Rust, evidence of hard use, check spare tire. | yes no | INTERIOR | | ITEM | LOOK FOR | PROBLEM? | | Evidence of detailing | Paint overspray, new seatcovers, new headliner, condition doesn't jibe with mileage. | yes no | | Upholstery | Sagging, worn, seat adjustment does not operate freely. | yes no | | Driver's door handle | Loose or sloppy. | yes no | | Armrests | Worn or frayed. | yes no | | Foot pedals | Operate freely without excessive play. | yes no | | Foot pedal pads | Condition jibes with mileage, excessively worn or brand new. | yes no | | Floor mats | Reasonable wear. | yes no | | Door locks | Operate positively. | yes no | | Parking brake | No binding. | yes no | | Windshield wiper | Operative. | yes no | | Instruments | Complete and operative. | yes no | | Radio | Operative. | yes no | | Heater and air conditioner | Adequate temperature output. | yes no | | Other options or accessories | Operable. | yes no | | Driver's side window and vent window | No binding or looseness. | yes no | | All other windows | Operate freely, evidence of leaks. | yes no | | Ignition switch | Excessive key wear. | yes no | | Other locks | Work smoothly, evidence of replacement. | yes no | | Weatherstripping | Worn or loose fitting. | yes no | | Steering wheel rim | Worn. | yes no | | All lights | Headlights-both beams, brake, tail, parking, back up and license plate lights, turn signals, emergency flasher operable. | yes no | | Horn | Operable. | yes no | | Windshield | "Damaged or scratched, evidence of leaks." | yes no | | Rear window | "Damaged or scratched, evidence of leaks." | yes no | MECHANICAL | | ITEM | LOOK FOR | PROBLEM? | | Brake pedal | Firm. | yes no | | Steering wheel | Excessive play, binding. | yes no | | Engine oil | Very heavy, dirty or grayish color. | yes no | | Auto transmission oil | Discolored or burnt srnell. | yes no | | Radiator | Dirty, gunk inside filler neck, leaking, evidence of boil over. | yes no | | Wiring | Frayed. | yes no | | Seals | Leaks on or around engine or under car. | yes no | | Dashboard engine warning lights | Operable, go out when engine starts. | yes no | | Engine start | Sluggish. | yes no | | Idle speed | Too fast when warmed up, uneven. | yes no | | Engine noise | Hissing, knocking, ticking, other. | yes no | | Engine running | Uneven pulse at tailpipe, sluggish response to accelerator pressure. | yes no | | Exhaust smoke | Black or blue. | yes no | | Steering | Groans, clunks, binding when lock to lock. | yes no | | Engine/Transmission | Leaks when engine is running. | yes no | | Fluids | Level and condition of engine oil, auto transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, battery water (with engine hot). | yes no | | Hot engine start | Fast starts on five consecutive tries. | yes no | | Auto transmission | Clunks, jerks, groans or other noises when shifting through the gears. Same symptoms when shifting back and forth between Drive and Reverse. | yes no | | Shock absorbers | More than one rebound cycle when each corner of car is pushed down. | yes no | ROAD TEST--ENGINE/TRANSMISSION | | ITEM | LOOK FOR | PROBLEM? | | Engine smoke | Black or blue. | yes no | | Engine | Uneven delivery of power, missing, sluggish, ping, knocks, hot rod sounds or other noises. | yes no | | Auto transmission | Slips, engine racing between shifts, uneven spacing of shifting, poor kickdown gear engagement, noises, whines, other. | yes no | | Standard transmission | Hard shifting, sloppiness in shift linkage, gear or other noises. | yes no | | Clutch | Slips, noises, excessive play or hard operation. | yes no | BRAKES | | ITEM | LOOK FOR | PROBLEM? | | Parking brake | Doesn't hold on hill or in gear against light accelerator pressure. | yes no | | Low speed brake test. | Wheels lock up evenly, low pedal, soft or spongy pedal feel. | yes no | | High speed brake test. | Car doesn't maintain directional stability, fade after three stops, spongy pedal feel. | yes no | ALIGNMENT | | ITEM | LOOK FOR | PROBLEM? | | Wheel and frame alignment | Car pulls to one side on straight and level road. Appears to travel crabwise when viewed from the rear. | yes no | STEERING/SUSPENSION | | ITEM | LOOK FOR | PROBLEM? | | Steering | Loose, wandering, binding, noises, clunks; wheel vibration, shimmy or road shocks transmitted through steering wheel. | yes no | | Suspension | Bouncy ride, excessive sway, poor directional control, hard ride or banging. | yes no | GENERAL | | ITEM | LOOK FOR | PROBLEM? | | Noises | Whine, hum, knocks, rattling, scraping-determine whether steady and if it varies with the speed of the car or the speed of the engine. | yes no | | Odors | Fumy, burning, gasoline, other. | yes no | | Leak recheck | Leaks around engine or under car. | yes no |
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